Paris: Day Three

Well, we never managed to get up early enough to be at the Eiffel Tower before 9 AM. We were close. It was about 9:45 when we got there and we arrived to find already long lines snaking across the base of the tower. The lines for the ticket were fast moving and we made it through, paid our exorbitant fare and stood in another line to take a lift to the top of the tower. It was drizzling through the entire time and we were glad we had purchased an umbrella at Gibert Jeune the previous evening. Given that it was expected to rain the next day, we even purchased a second umbrella from one of those vendors hanging around tourist spots selling cheap trinkets. It turned out to be 5 euros well spent. Sheila did not want to climb the whole tower despite my urging. There may have been something wrong with the lift, for a while, at least, because it seemed like we waited in that line forever. When we finally made it to the top, it was exhilarating. The views were beautiful. We wandered about the three levels for a while and walked down the entire structure. Walking down was easy.

Given the expected rain, we had decided to do the Musee d’Orsay today. We headed there to find unbelievably long lines waiting to get in. Fortunately, the line for those with a Paris Museum pass was much shorter and we made it in relatively quickly. We purchased an audio guide and wandered around the hallways for hours. I discovered that I love the classical realism of Delacroix and others, like the impressionists – Monet, Degas, Sisley (especially), and Manet (to some extent), but just did not like the post-impressionists like Bonnard and Gauguin. I just don’t get it. It just seemed that a lot of their work was what you’d expect from a fifth-grade art class. Oh well, it just means I need to learn more. We spent several hours admiring innumerable paintings by Monet, Manet, Degas, Delacroix, Seurat, Signac, etc., and sculptures by Rodin, Bartholdi, Carpeaux, Dallou, and others. Sometimes, being in the presence of such an extraordinary quantity of art can be overwhelming and I can see why people go straight to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre. It’s not that it is particularly extraordinary to see, but it just makes decision making easier. Otherwise, where do you even start?

We had seen a “wine tasting” experience included with our Paris Pass and we headed there. We walked to “Ô Chateau” for the wine tasting and were told we had just missed the tour (it was about 4:15 PM by then). Although we missed the wine tasting, they said they would give us a 15 euro credit for having the Paris Pass. I ordered a wine flight for 14 euros which I enjoyed very much.

By the time we were done, it was getting to be evening and we found we maybe had just enough time to see the Saint-Chapelle cathedral before it closed. We rushed there and the guard was already turning people away saying ticket sales had ended. He saw our Paris Museum Pass and waved us in. We were about the last people let in as he closed the door behind us. The Saint Chapelle cathedral was as glorious as I remembered. The stained glass is breathtaking. The only disappointment (a minor one) was that the Rose window was undergoing restoration and so not visible.

We finally headed back to our hotel for the last two nights, picked up our bags and headed to the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile for the one night we had booked there. It used to be the Hotel Concorde Lafayette and was only recently (May 2013) purchased by Hyatt. While it was comfortable, it definitely needs renovation. The furnishings were dated and faded and the climate controls and restroom fixtures were primitive. Still, the guy gave us a room on the 28th floor with a fantastic view of Sacre Coeur Cathedral. We planned to relax for a bit and head out for dinner, but we were so exhausted that we never made it. We fell asleep and only woke up the next morning for a late start to Versailles.